The Dover's apron is hand sewn with a boar’s bristle needle, a technique understood by connoisseurs to be the cordwainer’s most intricate craft. The hand sewing on each pair takes over two hours to complete.

The boar's bristle is split and spun together with the sewer's thread, ensuring a thin and malleable needle which arcs through the calfskin, allowing the two sides of the shoe's upper to be sewn edge to edge where they meet at the toe - creating the style's 'split toe.' The split toe derby is also called a 'Norwegian derby' because the style of apron was said to have been pioneered by Norwegian fishermen. 

We've been making the model since at least the 1920s and today the Dover is our signature style.

As well as the classic colours stocked on the 606 last, look out for an ever-changing assortment of Dovers - such as the waxed utah models for fall and unlined suedes for summer. Or select your own leather and last to create your own personalised Dover made to order.