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London Craft Week - The Art of Handsewing

4. 05. 2017

London Craft Week - The Art of Handsewing

As part of London Craft Week Edward Green hand sewer Andy Peach has been demonstrating his craft in our Jermyn Street store. 
 
We have half a dozen or so styles at Edward Green - most notably the Dover - which have the toe and apron carefully sewn by hand with a boars’ bristle. Andy learnt the technique over 15 years ago and is now passing his skills on to a new generation at Edward  Green. 
 
A boar’s bristle is carefully split. A yarn prepared and spun and its ends intertwined with the bristle. Andy picks up his cube of wax and runs it fast across the thread, the friction warming and melting the wax which binds the thread together and will allow it to move effortlessly through the leather.  Nothing is doubled back, nothing is hard nor straight. This thread will curve through the leather taking up no more room than that which is left inside.
 

It takes two hours to complete the toes and aprons of a pair of shoes using this time-tested technique but at Edward Green we wouldn’t have it any other way.

 

Andy has prepared the shoes’ upper, marking out incision points with a pair of dividers and a pricking wheel. He takes up his awl and cuts meticulously into the calfskin, through the bottom and out through the side so that the two sides can meet at the toe, edge to edge.

When this is done he places a wooden block on his knee, his calfskin on the wooden block and pulls a leather stirrup across them both, held taut with his foot. And then he takes up his thread and begins to sew.

The bristle finds its minute incision and with occasional encouragement from Andy’s awl, makes its way through both pieces of calf. As does a second running through to the other side in the opposite direction. When both bristles are through Andy lifts his arms high and across, pulling the three or so feet of thread through with them.

It takes two hours to complete the toes and aprons of a pair of shoes using this time-tested technique but at Edward Green we wouldn’t have it any other way.

 

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